Iceland's Highland Interior: F-Roads, Hot Springs, and Total Solitude

Sarah Mitchell

July 24, 2025

4 min read· 58 views

I still remember the first time I dipped my toes into a steaming hot spring after hours of bouncing along a bone-rattling F-road. The chill of the Icelandic air mixed with the sulfurous steam, the scent of earth and minerals filling my nostrils. That moment, surrounded by nothing but rugged lava fields and distant mountains, felt like stepping onto another planet.

Why the Highlands?

More than just a detour off the beaten path

The Icelandic Highlands are the country's volcanic, glacier-scarred heart: a vast interior plateau of black sand deserts, rhyolite mountains, and geothermal wonders. Unlike the popular Ring Road that hugs the coast, these F-roads (mountain roads marked with an 'F') are wild, unpaved, and often impassable except during the short summer months (roughly June to September). Driving here requires a sturdy 4x4 and nerves of steel.

Explore the stunning landscape of Iceland's Landmannalaugar highlands with colorful mountains.

Rhyolite Mountains of Landmannalaugar

The colorful rhyolite mountains of Landmannalaugar shimmer in hues of pink, green, and gold. Hiking trails weave through fields of jagged lava and steaming vents, offering some of Iceland's most surreal landscapes. This region marks the gateway to the Highlands and a perfect introduction to its raw beauty.

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I got my first taste of Highland travel here, after missing a turn off the Ring Road and ending up on the F208 by accident. A wrong choice that turned into one of my most memorable experiences. The track was rough, broken by river crossings and loose gravel, but the rewards were spectacular: remote hot springs where I soaked after a long trek, and nights spent camping under skies so clear I could count every star.

Essential Tips for Highland Driving

1
Rent a 4x4 - Only 4-wheel drive vehicles are allowed on F-roads. Rentals from Reykjavik start around 20,000 ISK per day.
2
Check road conditions - The Icelandic Road and Coastal Administration website (www.road.is) updates daily on F-road accessibility.
3
Prepare for river crossings - Many routes require you to ford rivers; know your vehicle's limits and never attempt crossings alone.
4
Bring camping gear - Wild camping is allowed but be respectful of the fragile environment and use designated sites when possible.
5
Plan your fuel stops - Gas stations are scarce; refuel whenever you can in towns like Hrauneyjar or Egilsstaðir.

Did you know?

Iceland's Highlands cover about 40% of the island but remain largely uninhabited, with only a handful of permanent structures outside summer mountain huts.

The Sprengisandur Route - An Epic Crossing

From north to south through the wilderness

The Sprengisandur route, running roughly 200 km between the north and south of Iceland, is the most remote and challenging Highland road. It cuts through a desert of black sand, volcanic ash, and steaming geothermal vents. When I drove it, the silence was almost unsettling: no birdsong, no wind, just the crunch of tires on gravel.

The landscape looked eerily like snapshots from Mars missions. At one point, I stopped near a basalt column formation called Hrafntinnusker, where a tiny mountain hut offers shelter. The water tastes mineral-rich here, and I brewed instant coffee that somehow tasted better amidst such desolation.

Explore the stunning Kerid Crater with its vibrant green lake set in Iceland's dramatic landscape.

Askja Caldera

Askja is a caldera within the Dyngjufjöll mountains famed for its otherworldly crater lake, Víti. Accessing Askja requires crossing several rivers and a long detour off the Sprengisandur route. The stark lunar landscape around the caldera, combined with the vivid blue lake, makes it a must-see for Highland adventurers.

Good to Know

The Sprengisandur F-road opens only in mid-June and closes by early September, weather permitting. The entire route can take a full day to complete, so start early and carry extra fuel and food.

F-Road	Length (km)	Difficulty	Access Window
Landmannalaugar (F208)	40	Moderate	June - September
Sprengisandur (F26)	200	Difficult	Mid-June - Early September
Askja Access (F88)	50 (from main routes)	Very Difficult (river crossings)	Mid-June - August

Wild camping is a rite of passage here. One night, I pitched my tent near a hot spring under a sky swirling with starlit skies. The cold seeped through layers, but the soothing warmth of the spring just steps away was an irresistible lure. Iceland's tourism board allows free camping but urges visitors to leave no trace: pack out everything and tread lightly.

Pros

Unmatched solitude and untouched natural beauty
Access to geothermal hot springs and unique landscapes
Adventure routes that test your driving skills and spirit

Cons

Requires a robust 4x4 and experience with river crossings
Short access season with unpredictable weather
Sparse services and limited emergency support

One memory that sticks with me is crossing a swollen river after a sudden summer rain. The water was icy, and I could hear the roar of the current as I carefully edged my vehicle across. Heart pounding, I made it safely, but the moment underscored how raw and unpredictable the Highland interior can be.

Packing for the Highlands

1
Layered clothing - Weather shifts quickly; bring waterproof outerwear and thermal layers.
2
Food and water - Carry extra supplies; wild springs are common but not always potable without treatment.
3
Navigation tools - GPS and physical maps; phone signals can be patchy or non-existent.
4
Emergency kit - Include a satellite phone or PLB (Personal Locator Beacon) if possible.
5
Camping essentials - Quality sleeping bag rated for sub-zero temps, sturdy tent.

A stunning aerial view of snow-capped mountains in Iceland's highlands, showcasing rugged terrain and dramatic clouds.

Midnight Sun in the Highlands

During summer, the Highlands bask in nearly 24 hours of daylight. This ethereal glow stretches your days, allowing more time to explore and relish the unique landscapes bathed in soft, golden sunlight.

If you've ever dreamed of escaping the crowds and stepping into a wild frontier that feels utterly untouched, Iceland's Highlands offer that and more. From the colored mountains of Landmannalaugar to the barren stretches of Sprengisandur, it's a journey that demands respect, preparation, and a hearty spirit of adventure.

Opening Hours & Access

Most Highland roads open by mid-June and close in early September. Mountain huts like Hrafntinnusker operate from late June to early September, offering basic shelter and sometimes food. Check www.fi.is for hut availability and booking.

After years of travelling through Turkey's crowded bazaars and wandering the echoing aisles of European cathedrals, nothing prepared me for the silence and vastness of Iceland's interior. It's a place where nature's forces are visible in every cracked lava field and boiling mud pool, and solitude is profound. I hope you, too, will venture beyond the paved roads and discover the Highlands' rocky heart for yourself.

Sarah Mitchell

Travel Editor at Vitano Magazine

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