Upper Takutu-Upper Essequibo / Guyana
Upper Takutu-Upper Essequibo
Explore the Wild Heart of Upper Takutu-Upper Essequibo
Upper Takutu-Upper Essequibo, also known as Region 9, is Guyana’s largest region, spanning vast stretches of savannah, lush rainforest, and winding rivers along the border with Brazil. The region is dominated by the expansive Rupununi Savannah, a unique ecosystem supporting an incredible diversity of wildlife including giant anteaters, jaguars, and hundreds of bird species. Remote Amerindian villages, such as Lethem—the regional capital—offer a warm welcome and a window into the traditions and daily life of the indigenous peoples. What makes this region special is its blend of natural beauty and cultural richness. Visitors can experience vibrant indigenous festivals, explore the Kanuku Mountains’ protected forests, or cross into neighboring Brazil for a taste of cross-border culture. Whether you’re seeking adventure, eco-tourism, or authentic cultural encounters, Upper Takutu-Upper Essequibo promises a journey off the beaten path.
Safety
The region is generally safe for travelers, but its remote nature means medical facilities are limited. Exercise caution when exploring wilderness areas, and always travel with a knowledgeable guide in the backcountry.
Visas
Visa requirements follow Guyanese regulations; most visitors from CARICOM, the US, EU, and Commonwealth countries do not require a visa for short stays.
Customs regulations
Respect for local traditions and elders is important in Amerindian villages. Always ask permission before photographing people or sacred sites, and dress modestly when visiting communities.
Prices
Travel in the region is relatively affordable, with modest guesthouses and community-run lodges offering budget-friendly options. Guided tours and transport can add to costs, especially for remote excursions.
People and nationalities
The region is home to several indigenous groups, including the Makushi, Wapishana, and Wai Wai peoples, who maintain rich traditions, languages, and crafts. Hospitality is highly valued, and visitors are often welcomed into villages for cultural exchanges.
Weather
Upper Takutu-Upper Essequibo has a tropical climate, with a distinct wet season from May to August and a dry season from September to April. The best time to visit is during the dry months, especially February to April, when roads are most accessible and wildlife sightings are plentiful. Temperatures typically range from 24°C to 34°C (75°F to 93°F) year-round.
Health
Health facilities are basic, with a hospital in Lethem and small health posts in some villages. Bring necessary medications and consider vaccinations for yellow fever and malaria prevention.
Food
Tuma Pot
A traditional Amerindian stew made with freshwater fish, cassava, and local herbs, slow-cooked in a clay pot over an open fire for a rich, earthy flavor.
Pepperpot
A hearty stew of beef or other meats simmered with cassareep (a sauce made from cassava), cinnamon, and other spices; a festive dish often enjoyed for special occasions.
Farine
A staple side dish made from grated, dried cassava root, served as a crunchy accompaniment to main meals or used in porridges.
Wapishana Roast
Barbecued meats (often beef or chicken) marinated with local spices and roasted over an open flame, popular at community gatherings and festivals.
Cassava Bread
Thin, crisp flatbread made from cassava flour, commonly eaten with stews or as a snack.
Transport
Domestic Flights
Small planes connect Georgetown with Lethem, offering the fastest and most reliable way to reach the region.
Overland 4x4 Vehicles
Rugged vehicles are essential for navigating the rough, sometimes muddy roads between villages and remote eco-lodges.
River Boats
Canoes and motorized boats are used to access remote communities and wildlife areas along the region's rivers.
Cross-Border Bus/Taxi
Buses and shared taxis operate between Lethem and Bonfim, Brazil, facilitating cross-border travel and commerce.
What to visit?
History
Indigenous peoples, including the Makushi and Wapishana, inhabit the savannahs and forests, developing distinct languages and traditions.
British colonial rule consolidates Guyana, increasing contact between indigenous communities and colonial authorities.
Explorers and anthropologists begin documenting the unique ecosystems and cultures of the Rupununi region.
The Rupununi Uprising sees local ranchers and indigenous groups rebel against the Guyanese government, highlighting tensions over land and autonomy.
Lethem is established as the regional capital, enhancing trade and cross-border relations with Brazil.
The Kanuku Mountains are designated a protected area, safeguarding critical habitats and promoting eco-tourism.
The Takutu River Bridge opens, strengthening economic and cultural ties between Guyana and Brazil via Lethem.
Activities
Explore the Rupununi Savannah
Venture across endless grasslands teeming with wildlife on horseback, by 4x4, or guided hikes for a true wilderness experience.
Visit Indigenous Villages
Participate in cultural exchanges, traditional crafts, and community festivals in Makushi, Wapishana, or Wai Wai villages.
Birdwatching and Wildlife Tours
Spot rare birds like the harpy eagle or giant anteaters on guided eco-tours in the Kanuku Mountains and riverine forests.
Attend the Rupununi Rodeo
Experience Guyana's most famous rodeo event in Lethem each Easter, featuring bull riding, cultural performances, and local cuisine.
Cross-Border Shopping in Bonfim, Brazil
Take a short trip across the Takutu River Bridge to explore Brazilian markets and savor regional cuisine.