Mount Makalu
Koshi
Mount Makalu stands as the fifth-highest mountain on Earth, reaching an elevation of 8,485 meters (27,838 feet) above sea level. Located in the Mahalangur Himalayas, it lies approximately 19 kilometers southeast of Mount Everest, straddling the border between Nepal and China. The mountain is notable for its distinctive four-sided pyramid shape, which makes it visually unique among the eight-thousanders. Makalu has two significant subsidiary peaks: Kangchungtse (Makalu II) at 7,678 meters, and Chomo Lonzo at 7,804 meters, both located nearby across connecting saddles and plateaus. The first successful ascent of Makalu was achieved in 1955 by a French expedition led by Jean Franco, with climbers Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy reaching the summit via the north face and northeast ridge. This expedition was remarkable for having the majority of its members summit, a rare feat at the time. Since then, Makalu has been the site of numerous notable climbs, including pioneering routes such as the West Pillar and South Face, and challenging ascents without supplemental oxygen. Its remote location, technical difficulty, and dramatic form continue to attract elite mountaineers and adventurers from around the world.
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Tip: The best time to attempt climbing Mount Makalu is during the pre-monsoon spring season or post-monsoon autumn when weather conditions are more stable. Due to the mountain's extreme difficulty and altitude, climbers should secure permits well in advance and consider joining experienced guided expeditions. Acclimatization and proper high-altitude preparation are critical. While Makalu is less frequented than Everest, it offers fewer commercial climbing services, so logistical planning is essential. Visitors interested in trekking near Makalu should explore the Makalu-Barun National Park for stunning natural scenery and cultural experiences.
Interesting facts
- •Mount Makalu is the fifth-highest mountain in the world, standing at 8,485 meters (27,838 feet).
- •Its distinctive four-sided pyramid shape sets it apart visually from other Himalayan peaks.
- •The first ascent in 1955 was notable for most expedition members reaching the summit, an unusual accomplishment at the time.
- •Makalu has two significant subsidiary peaks: Kangchungtse (Makalu II) and Chomo Lonzo.
- •The mountain has been climbed via multiple challenging routes including the West Pillar and South Face, some without supplemental oxygen.
History
Mount Makalu was first attempted in 1954 by an American expedition that reached up to 7,100 meters but was turned back by storms.
The first successful ascent was made on May 15, 1955, by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy of a French expedition, marking a significant achievement in Himalayan mountaineering.
Over the following decades, climbers pioneered several challenging routes, including the Southeast Ridge in 1970 and the technical West Pillar in 1971.
The mountain has been the site of notable ascents without supplemental oxygen and solo climbs, reflecting its status as one of the most difficult eight-thousanders to conquer.
Place Guide
North Face and Northeast Ridge Route1955
The classic and standard climbing route established by the first ascent team in 1955, involving a challenging approach via the saddle between Makalu and Kangchungtse (Makalu-La).
West Pillar Route1971
A very technical and difficult climbing route first successfully ascended in 1971 by French climbers B. Mellet and Y. Seigneur, known for its steep and exposed sections.
South Face Route1975
A steep and demanding route climbed in 1975 by an expedition led by Aleš Kunaver, notable for being the first ascent of an eight-thousand meter peak by a great mountain face without supplemental oxygen.
