Tödi
Glarus
Tödi, with its highest summit Piz Russein at 3,613 meters, stands as the tallest mountain in the Glarus Alps and the canton of Glarus, Switzerland. This vast massif features three main peaks: Sandgipfel, Glarner Tödi, and Piz Russein, the latter being the highest and most prominent. Geographically, Tödi straddles the border between the cantons of Glarus and Graubünden, near the junction with Uri, and is framed by significant glaciers such as the Biferten Glacier and the Sand Glacier. The massif's geology is characterized by gneiss and metamorphic slate, with notable layers of dolomite and Jurassic limestone. Tödi's steep, glaciated slopes make it a challenging climb, historically first ascended in 1824 by Augustin Bisquolm and Placi Curschellas under the guidance of Placidus a Spescha. The mountain holds a special place in Swiss mountaineering history, with the Grünhorn Hut near its glaciers being the first Swiss Alpine Club hut. Today, the normal climbing routes approach from the Fridolinshütte and Punteglias-Hütte, traversing glaciers and rocky walls, offering adventurers a demanding yet rewarding alpine experience.
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Tip: The best time to visit Tödi is during the summer climbing season when weather conditions are more stable. Climbers should prepare for glacier travel and crevasse navigation, ideally with experienced guides. Booking accommodations such as the Fridolinshütte in advance is recommended, especially in peak months. While the Grünhorn Hut is preserved as a museum, it no longer serves as lodging. Visitors should check local weather forecasts and glacier conditions before attempting ascents. Discounts may be available for Swiss Alpine Club members on hut stays and guided tours.
Interesting facts
- •Tödi is the highest peak in the canton of Glarus and the Glarus Alps.
- •The mountain massif includes three main peaks: Sandgipfel, Glarner Tödi, and Piz Russein, the highest.
- •The Biferten Glacier adjacent to Tödi is about 4 kilometers long and heavily crevassed.
- •The Grünhorn Hut near Tödi was the first mountain hut built by the Swiss Alpine Club.
- •The name 'Tödi' likely derives from Swiss German 'd’Ödi', meaning a desolate or deserted area.
History
The Tödi massif was first attempted in the early 19th century by Benedictine monk Placidus a Spescha, who made several ascents but did not reach the summit himself.
The first successful ascent occurred on September 1, 1824, by Augustin Bisquolm and Placi Curschellas, guided by Spescha.
In 1863, the Swiss Alpine Club was founded, designating Tödi as a primary exploration area and establishing the Grünhorn Hut near the Biferten Glacier, the club's first mountain hut.
Over time, climbing routes and mountain infrastructure have developed, enhancing access while preserving the mountain's challenging nature.
Place Guide
Piz Russein (Summit)
The highest peak of the Tödi massif at 3,613 meters, offering commanding views over the Glarus Alps and challenging glacier terrain to reach the summit.
Biferten Glacier
A vast, steep, and heavily crevassed glacier southeast of Tödi, originating in a large snow basin and bordered by peaks such as Stoc Grond and Bifertenstock.
Grünhorn Hut1863
The first mountain hut of the Swiss Alpine Club, located near the Biferten Glacier, now preserved as a museum rather than lodging.
Sandgipfel and Glarner Tödi Peaks
The northernmost and second highest peaks of the massif, visible from the Ober Sand Alp and Stachelberg respectively, forming part of Tödi’s distinctive triple summit.
