Wildspitze
Tirol
Wildspitze is the highest mountain in North Tyrol and the Ötztal Alps, standing at 3,768 meters above sea level, making it the second highest peak in Austria after Großglockner. Located about 12 km northeast of the main Alpine ridge in the Weißkamm section of the Ötztal Alps, it features two summits: a rocky south summit with a summit cross and a firn-covered north summit that has gradually lowered due to melting. The mountain overlooks the Venter Tal to the south and east and the Pitztal valley to the west and north. Its prominence ranks fourth in the Alps, surpassed only by Mont Blanc, Großglockner, and Finsteraarhorn. The panoramic views from Wildspitze extend across the Walliser and Bernese Alps to the Schober group in the east, limited only by atmospheric haze and the earth's curvature. The mountain is a popular destination for mountaineers year-round, accessible via several glacier routes requiring full glacier safety equipment. The construction of the Pitztaler Gletscherbahn cable car has made day trips from the Pitztal valley feasible. Wildspitze's normal ascent route leads from the firn basin north of the Mitterkarjoch over the southwest ridge to the south summit and is considered a moderate high alpine tour under normal conditions.
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Tip: The best time to climb Wildspitze is during the summer months when weather conditions are more stable. Due to glacier crossings, climbers should be equipped with full glacier safety gear and consider hiring a mountain guide if unfamiliar with alpine terrain. Booking accommodations at mountain huts like the Breslauer Hütte in advance is recommended during peak season. The Pitztaler Gletscherbahn cable car facilitates easier access to the ascent routes, allowing for day trips. Visitors should check weather forecasts and glacier conditions before planning their ascent.
Interesting facts
- •Wildspitze is the highest peak in the Ötztal Alps and the second highest in Austria after Großglockner.
- •Its prominence of 2,266 meters ranks it fourth in the Alps, surpassed only by Mont Blanc, Großglockner, and Finsteraarhorn.
- •The summit cross was first installed in 1933 and replaced after 77 years with the original cross placed in the Venter Tal, the only valley spot from which Wildspitze is visible.
- •The north summit's height has decreased over the decades due to glacier melting, changing the main summit designation to the south peak.
History
The first recorded ascent of Wildspitze's south summit was made in 1848 by Leander Klotz from Rofen and an unknown farmer.
Leander Klotz also achieved the first ascent of the then higher north summit in 1861 via the connecting ridge from the south summit.
Over time, melting has reduced the height of the north summit, making the south summit the main peak.
In 1933, a summit cross was erected on the south summit; after 77 years, it was replaced by a new one transported via helicopter, and the original was relocated to a vantage point in the Venter Tal.
The mountain's height was subject to measurement debates throughout the 20th century, with fluctuating figures influenced partly by tourism interests.
Place Guide
South Summit (Südgipfel)
The rocky south summit of Wildspitze stands at 3,768 meters and features the iconic summit cross. It is the main peak currently recognized due to the north summit's glacier melt. The ascent here is considered the normal route and is accessible via glacier travel requiring proper equipment.
North Summit (Nordgipfel)
The firn-covered north summit was historically higher but has decreased in height from 3,776 meters in the 19th century to about 3,757 meters today due to melting glaciers. It lies north of the south summit and was first climbed in 1861 by Leander Klotz.
Normal Route via Firn Basin and Southwest Ridge
The standard ascent route starts from the firn basin north of the Mitterkarjoch and ascends over the southwest ridge to the south summit. The route crosses glaciers and requires full glacier safety equipment. It can be accessed from several mountain huts, including Breslauer Hütte and Taschachhaus.
