Svolvær Goat

Svolvær Goat

Nordland

75/10090 min

Svolvær Goat, locally known as Svolværgeita, is a 150-meter tall pinnacle located on the southwest face of Fløyfjellet mountain on Austvågøya island in the Lofoten archipelago, Norway. The mountain's name means "the goat" in Norwegian, inspired by its distinctive two horns, Storhorn and Lillehorn. It is a popular climbing destination with a rich history dating back to its first recorded ascent on August 1, 1910, by Ferdinand Schjelderup, Alf Bonnevie Bryn, and Carl Wilhelm Rubenson. Climbers often perform a daring jump between the two horns, with a 1.5-meter gap overlooking the town cemetery nearly 300 meters below. Several climbing routes exist, including the classic Front Side route first ascended in 1947, and more challenging routes like Highway to Heaven and Angelwings. The peak is notable not only for its dramatic appearance but also for its cultural significance to local climbers, including Geir Rune Holm, who reached the summit over 1000 times by 2021. The Goat remains a symbol of adventurous spirit and natural beauty in the Lofoten region.

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Consiglio: The best time to climb Svolvær Goat is during the summer months when weather conditions are more favorable. Visitors should consider booking guided climbs or checking local climbing regulations. While the peak is accessible for experienced climbers, safety precautions and proper equipment are essential. Booking in advance is recommended, especially during peak season. No specific ticketing is required, but climbers should be aware of weather conditions and local advice.

Fatti interessanti

  • The name 'Geita' means 'the goat' in Norwegian, referencing the two distinct horns of the pinnacle.
  • Climbers often jump a 1.5-meter gap between the two horns, a famous and daring move.
  • The first ascent team bet a local hotel owner a bottle of wine that they would reach the summit.
  • Local climber Geir Rune Holm achieved the milestone of 1000 ascents in 2021.
  • A 1998 optical illusion made locals believe the Goat was collapsing, causing a temporary evacuation scare.

Storia

1910

Svolvær Goat was first successfully climbed on August 1, 1910, by Schjelderup, Bryn, and Rubenson, who bet a local hotel owner a bottle of wine on their success.

Shortly before, the trio had completed the first ascent of Stetind.

1947

Over the years, multiple climbing routes have been established, with notable ascents such as the Front Side in 1947 and Highway to Heaven in 1991.

1998

In 1998, a mirage caused local concern that the Goat was collapsing, but it was later confirmed to be an optical illusion.

The mountain has since remained a cherished climbing landmark in Norway.

Guida del luogo

1
Storhorn

The larger of the two horns on Svolvær Goat, often used as the starting point for the famous jump to Lillehorn. It offers climbers dramatic views over Svolvær and the surrounding fjords.

2
Lillehorn

The smaller horn of the pinnacle, which climbers leap onto from Storhorn. It overlooks the town cemetery located about 300 meters below, offering a thrilling perspective.

3
The 1910 Route1910
Ferdinand Schjelderup, Alf Bonnevie Bryn, Carl Wilhelm Rubenson

The original climbing route taken by the first ascent team of Bryn, Schjelderup, and Rubenson. It includes a diagonal traverse across the north wall and is historically significant.

4
The Front Side Route1947
Wilhelm Høyer, Alf Krane

The longest and classic climbing route, first ascended by Wilhelm Høyer and Alf Krane in 1947. It is graded 5+ and remains popular among climbers.

5
Highway to Heaven1991

A challenging climbing route graded 6+ A2, first ascended in August 1991. It offers technical climbing for experienced climbers.